Our Azores Diaries 📔

James Lewis • September 23, 2026

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How we spent 10 days on Sao Miguel

As you may have seen all over our social media, we've just spent the past couple of weeks exploring The Azores. This volcanic archipelago - located off of Portugal's west coast, about â…“rd of the way to America - remains very much a hidden gem. 

 

Known as the “Galapagos of Europe”, these islands are perfect for adventure-travellers and those of you seeking something very different to anything the rest of Europe has to offer.

 

If you're entirely unfamiliar with The Azores, the best description is this: it's Iceland but tropical. It's got the same raw, rugged wilderness and breathtaking scenery as Iceland, but with the bright, life-affirming weather of the Mediterranean.

 

Despite its relatively northerly location (it's further north than the Canaries!), the archipelago has a very tropical climate; high humidity with hot days and warm nights during the summer. 

 

Our trip centred around Sao Miguel - the principal island of the archipelago's 7. Here you'll find most of the 'famous' sights as well as the only 'city' on the entire island chain - Ponta Delgada. This is where our trip began. 

 

And if you're keen to learn more about exactly where we went and what we did, James is in the thick of writing a full breakdown of our itinerary, containing all the details of everything we did and all our recommendations for your own trip to this spectacular island.


Kayaking on the famous blue and green lakes of Sete Cidades


Ponta Delgada

Ponta Delgada is the only city on the entire island chain, and the capital of The Azores. With a population of around 70,000 people, it's about the same size as Inverness. 

 

With the airport only a mere 15-minutes outside the city centre, Ponta Delgada is a logical first stop on any Sao Miguel itinerary.

 

It's a charming city, with cobblestone streets flanked by the pastel hues of those sun-bleached buildings that are so characteristic of southern Europe. Here you'll find the museums, galleries and bars that are missing elsewhere on the island. Far more importantly than those things, though - you'll also find Sao Miguel's various pineapple plantations. A sweet Azorean pineapple juice is a tonic when the heat of the sun gets too much. 

 

Ponta Delgada is also a perfect gateway to Sao Miguel's west - including the famous twin lakes of Sete Cidades that you've probably seen shining on social media in their sheens of green and blue. The less -famous but equally-amazing thermal pools at Ponta da Ferraria. 

 

You can also embark on whale watching tours from Ponta Delgada's harbour, which we highly recommend doing. Further afield, take a trip into 

 

After 4 days in Ponta Delgada, we left the city behind, heading into Sao Miguel's central highlands and…

The woodland of Parque de Grena is straight out of a fairytale


Furnas

Furnas could not be more different to Ponta Delgada. This small town in the centre of Sao Miguel is dominated by its relationship to the volcano it shares its space with. Steam billows from cracks in the pavements apocalypse-style and traditional Cozida are still cooked in the boiling water of its geothermal springs to this day. 

 

Volcanic soil means an abundance of plant life perched on the steep slopes of its caldera. At the bottom of this basin sits Lake Furnas - a large, pristine lake whose emerald-coloured water is only disrupted by the odd leaping fish. 

 

One of the highlights of the entire trip was our day spent doing the walk around the lake. Depending on whether the sun was out, the land seemed to flip between the Scottish Highlands and the Seychelles! The sun unleashed the colours of the tropical plant life; the shade seemed to give the towering pines centre stage.

 

The Parque de Grena is an absolute must-do. Set back from the main lake trail, this slice of wonderland leads you through dense woodland, climbing up and up the side of the caldera as you go. A mid-climb swim under a waterfall is highly recommended!

 

We also visited Parque Terra Nostra and Poça da Dona Beija. The latter is better for bathing, with more pools and the ability to go in the evening! Our walk around Terra Nostra's pretty gardens in the middle of the day proved too hot to stomach the thought of a dunk in 40c water!

Stunning sunsets at Santa Barbara beach


Sanata Barbara

From the lush green of Furnas' forests back to the striking teal of the coast, our last leg saw us hit surfer-paradise Santa Barbara. Perched on the north coast across the island from Ponta Delgada, Santa Barbara's combination of honey-coloured sand and rhythmic waves make it popular with water-lovers of all kinds. 

 

5-minutes eastward sits the town of Ribiera Grande, an really interesting town that reflects its hybrid population of Azorean locals and foreign surfers. On one side of a road sits a dimly-lit taverna filled with the French-sounding twang that characterises Azorean Portuguese. On the other, a wellness cafe serving poached eggs and smoothies to a wetsuit-clad crowd. 

 

On the other side of Santa Barbara sits the fishing village of Reiba da Peixe, where we caught our second whale watching tour of the trip. The signs were good - the Atlantic glassy and calm. 

 

We quickly ran into a pod of Atlantic dolphin who - as all dolphins seem to be - were busy goofing around. Another game of race-the-boat ensued, punctuated by the dolphins hurling themselves out of the water in great leaps. 

 

Later on, we were treated to the defining moment of the trip: two native sperm whales having some kind of interaction with a Bryde's whale on its migratory route. Two locals and a tourist. Clearly, the Bryde's whale wasn't travelling respectfully, as the two sperm whales were in their iconic 'upright' defensive posture. 

 

To complete the scene, two freewheeling dolphins entered the picture from stage left. They briefly harassed the two sperm whales before hitching their wagon to the now-retreating Bryde's whale, playfully splashing around all the while. 

 

Our trip came to an end with more achingly-beautiful sunsets; watching the sea of Santa Barbara kindled to a burning orange as the remainder of the swimmers called it a day.

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